E21: RETROFIT - Stereo / CD Player.

Yep, the old adage of BMWs not coming with a radio is true. For higher models an FM-radio or 8-track tape player (this was the '70s) was an expensive add-on, but for the 316 they weren't even included in the list of options. There are holes in the console where a previous owner has had some sort of radio installed and there are Pioneer 4x6 speakers already mounted in the footwells and wired in, although they're only paper cones and are going to need upgrading. I bought Alpine 5x5 with the intention of making an MDF riser to fit them into the car's apertures, but it turns out they would foul the glove-box on the passenger side and require a chunk cutting out of the steering-column trim so they had to go back. The flappy paper ones will have to do until I get hold of some decent 4x6.

I got given a fascia-adaptor with the car, which replaces the ash-tray / lighter trim with a deeper one that adds a radio slot above. It's a period OEM item, bought from BMW Classic, Park Lane, and is rather nice, but I'd hoped not to use it and conceal the radio in the back of the dash somewhere. It doesn't look like there's space in the console after all so I reluctantly tore open the sealed BMW parts bag and decided to fit the new fascia.

E21 316: Re-Spray Strip Down 2 - Grilles + Lights Removal.

A. Front Grilles, Headlights + Indicators:

1. Disconnect the corner-indicator wiring-plug - the small round light-grey socket in the front corners under the bonnet - and push the indicator-side plug through the hole in the inner-wing it's wire goes through. *When re-fitting, the plug will need to be accessed from inside the wheel-arch to push it back through the hole into the engine-bay.

2. Using a pozi-screwdriver undo the screws located at the top and bottom of each corner-indicator lens and gently prize the lens free of its seal.

3. Remove the larger pozi-drive screws from the top and bottom end, inside the indicator itself and pull the it, along with the wiring-plug, out from the corner-grilles.

4. Remove the two small screws holding down the lower edge of each front-grille, located between the bottom grille-bars. Use a pozi-screwdriver with a pretty fine tip as it's easy to round off the old heads with larger ones.

5. Remove the 2 metal clips from the top edge of the kidney-grilles by gently prizing them forwards and upwards. Tilt the kidney-grilles forward, hold the bottom centre and lift it clear of the plastic clip at the base.

6. Remove the 3 metal clips the top edge of each front-grille and lift the grilles off.

7. Disconnect the main headlight wiring-plug, just behind the headlight in the engine bay. They just pull apart, no clips here, but may be a bit stiff.

8. Using a large pozi-screwdriver, remove the single screw from the bracket on the outer side and the 2 screws from the inner side of each headlight and carefully remove the lamp unit from the body.

B. Rear Grille + Tail-Lights:

1. Remove the 2 pozi-drive screws from the lower corners of the rear centre-grille.

2. Inside the boot, pop off the 2 plastic push-nuts from the studs behind the grille.

3. Remove the two 10mm bolts from the boot-latch, just inside the boot lip at the centre and lift the latch  up through the gap and out of its recess.

4. Using a wide pair of need-nose pliers, or carefully tapping a flat-head screwdriver, unscrew the ring-nut from the back of the boot-lock barrel. The lock should then slid out of the boot-lid and the grille will come free. *Replace the boot-lock and redo the ring-nut, unless you are leaving it off for the re-spray.

5. Remove the six screws from the back of each tail-light unit using an 8mm socket with a few inches reach. The plastic back-covers are what hold the tail-lights against the boot wall, so once they're off the light-units are free so be wary of them dropping out.

E21 316: Re-Spray Strip Down 1 - Bumpers + Ext. Trim Removal.

A. Badges:

Use a slim flat-head screwdriver wrapped in cloth to prize the BMW roundel badges gently from the body, being careful not to dent the rim of their recesses. Move round the badge lifting a millimetre or two at a time to avoid bending the badge or tarnishing the rim. The two studs sit in plastic cups, which will likely stay in the bodywork. Use a flat-head screwdriver to separate them from the surface, but it's best to push them from behind while teasing them out to avoid snapping the ancient plastic-collar.

Do the same for the model-no. badge, but these have 3 studs, to the left, right and centre, so apply pressure here and there's less chance of snapping the delicate joints between numbers.

B. Side Rubbing-Strips:

*Avoid using the 'sliding off' technique used for the E30, as suggested on other forums - the E21's strips have fixed clips at each end.

1. Using a 10mm wrench remove the plastic nuts located just inside the wheel-arch behind the foremost edge of the front-wing strips. Gently peel the front end of the strip away from the wing until it pops clear of the push-clip to the rear.

2. Remove the 10mm plastic-nut located just inside the rear wheel-arch behind the end of the rubbing-strip. Gently peel the rear end of the strip away from the wing until it is clear of the push-clip.

3. Using a 10mm socket with at least 5" of reach, remove the plastic-nut located just inside the rear door edge behind the rubbing-strip and the one located behind the leading-edge of the strip, inside the door-jam next to the hinge. Gently peel the strip off the door from either end until it is clear of the 3 centre push-clips.

* Screw the nuts back onto the trim for safe-keeping.


C. Front + Rear Bumpers:

1. Remove the 13mm bolt from either side of the front-bumper, located just inside the wing and behind the bumper side-strafe about halfway down.

2. Support the bumper and remove the 13mm nut on each of the bumper-brackets than extend out of the front valance, behind the centre area of the bumper. The front bumper should easily come forwards off the car.

3. Remove the two pozi-drive screws holding each no. plate lamp into the rear bumper, pull the lamp down, disconnect the wiring sockets and replace the lamps to the bumper for safe keeping.

4. Remove the 13mm bolt from either side of the rear bumper, located inside the boot just to the rear of each wheel-arch in the storage compartments.

5. Support the bumper and remove the two 13mm nuts from each side of the rear section located inside the back of the boot. The rear bumper should come away easily.

*If one or more of your bumper side-bolts shears the captive nut away from where it's fixed inside the bumper it is possible to prize away the metal that cases the square-nut enough to get a slim 13mm or 1/2" spanner onto it and get a turn. You may still need to cut the bolt off, as we did with the N/S/F one, but the above process is still essential for tightening a new nut back on.